DIY Mason Jar Light!

DIY Mason Jar Light

This is a project I’ve been wanting to do for a VERY LONG TIME! We’ll get into why it took so long for me to complete it later. My inspiration originally came from this light fixture sold by Pottery Barn:

I, like most other people who have seen it, shuddered at the price. Although it is a good price for such an amazing light fixture, I just didn’t want to drop $400 on a light (because I am a chronic cheap-ass). SO the search was on for a DIY version. I learned about and practiced electrical wiring in a few of my college courses so I had no fears about taking on a DIY light fixture.

I found several tutorials for such a chandelier. Some were awful, some were good but missing details, others were overly-complicated for no reason. I realized I was kind of on my own with this one so I took inspiration from some of the better tutorials and proceeded to make up my own plan. Well it SUCKED! This whole project was such a pain because I ran into obstacles at EVERY. SINGLE. STEP. Here is a breakdown of some of the trouble I experienced:

  • There is not one piece of lumber in this state that isn’t all sorts of jacked and warped. If I had certain luxuries at my disposal I could have ran a decent piece through a planer but alas, I am not so lucky. I finally found an OK panel. It was still so warped that it made it very difficult to put the box together and the end result is obviously not perfect. But after a lot of distress, I decided it will just have to be imperfect and that will make it rustic…
    • It also didn’t help that the only saw we have at the new house is a circular saw with a blade that deserved retirement many moons ago. If we had a miter box here, the cuts would have been easier to make and a lot cleaner…one day I will get all the tools here from the in-law’s house.
  • The wood also split about 5 times when I was trying to put it together before I finally stopped acting brain-dead and drilled pilot holes (come on Alison, you know better!)
  • The particular type of wood I purchased had some sort of waxy coating on it (in hind-sight I think it was paint grade but it was the ONLY piece of lumber that had the dimensions I wanted) so it took FOREVER for the stain to dry and it didn’t look right afterwards so I decided to faux-whitewash it…again imperfections=rustic right?
  • There are 30 bagillion kinds of keyless sockets that I know of but according to many tutorials, one specific design would work best for this project. This kind however was not in the electrical area of ANY home improvement store I went to. Turns out they’re in a tiny nearly-hidden area near the ceiling fans…no help to any employees of said stores.
  • The brass nipples that would fit into the sockets need to be 1 inch long. Well there are no nipples in ANY of the hardware areas that are 1in long AND will fit the sockets. After more tedious searching, it turns out they too are in that tiny area near the fans HOWEVER, they only come in 6 inch lengths. Which means we needed to buy an angle grinder and a cutting wheel to cut them into 1 inch lengths.
    • Then after more frustration, it was obvious the ends needed grinding down because cutting them produced sharp jagged edges that made it impossible to thread them into the sockets.
  • The hex nuts I needed were also in that area…which I only realized after several trips spent searching every drawer I’m accustom to finding hex nuts in. But these only come in 16-pack sets of various sizes so I had to buy 2 packs and sort out the ones I needed.
  • I originally wanted all the jars to hang at the same length, therefore I cut all my wires at the same length….well all of the stress from this project must have been killing my brain and impairing my usually immaculate thought process because in order for the jars to hang at the same length, some of the wires need to be longer. Otherwise how would they all be able to meet in the middle to connect together? I realized this one night when I was laying in bed trying to go to sleep (ironically when I thought I finally got a leg up on this project and all the hell it was causing.) Rather than buying more wire, re-cutting it at the various lengths, and rewiring the sockets, I decided the jars would just hang at different lengths and although I like it better this way, it was still another problem encountered.

Because this project proposed infuriating difficulties at every turn, I did not take many pictures as I went along. I cursed it about 50 times and I constantly threatened to do-away with the whole thing and just buy one. Now that it is hooked up and mounted, I LOVE IT! I imagine it will be super straight forward and simple if I ever make another but I’ll admit, this first one was nearly impossible.

Before I continue on to the tutorial part, I realize this project was an ass and I definitely laid out a lot of anger up there. I did this because I either A.) want you to know what hell I experienced so you can try to avoid those issues or B.) convince you to just buy one if you’re not an experienced DIY’er. But either way, here is a reminder of how beautiful it is.

Mason Jar Chandelier

Okay so here is a supplies list:

  • 8 jars of your choice (I wanted true vintage ones from the 1910-1920s rather than new ones. Prepare to be patient if you feel the same, most people charge way too much for them)
  • Wood for the box (I used [one] 1”x12”x36” pine panel for the bottom and [two] 1”x3”x6’softwood boards cut into pieces for the sides)
  • Wood screws, #6x 1.75”
  • One 1”x2”x6’ piece of softwood for a frame to mount the box on to
  • Self-Drilling Drywall Anchors with #8 x1.5” Screws (they’re huge and hold a lot of weight!)
  • 18-2 Lamp Cord at 25ft length
  • 8 Keyless Sockets (Portfolio brand Lamp Sockets, they come in a 2 pack)
  • 8 (1 inch) 1/8 IP threaded brass nipples (The ones that will fit are also Portfolio brand but 6 inches long so they need to be cut, also come in a 2 pack)
  • 8 hex nuts to fit nipples
  • 8 candelabra light bulbs, 15W. I wanted LED bulbs because they don’t produce heat but they’re super expensive so it’ll have to wait.
  • 4 wire caps (2 for wires in box, 2 to connect to ceiling wires). I recommend buying a multi-pack with various sizes so you’re sure you have the right size you’ll need.
  • Wood stain of choice and white acrylic paint if you want to whitewash for a vintage look
  • Black acrylic paint for cords. You could use whatever color you like or leave them unpainted. Get creative with whatever look you want

Fairly straight forward and simple when you think about it.

Tools List:

  • Saw (circular or miter/chop saw)
  • Angle grinder with a cutting wheel and a grinding wheel
  • Drill
  • 1/16” drill bit for #6 screw pilot holes
  • 5/64” drill bit for #8 screw pilot holes
  • 1/4” drill bit for holes wires go through
  • Screwdriver
  • Wire strippers/cutter
  • Hammer & nail (for poking holes in the jar lids)
  • A ladder

I spent about $50 on the jars (including shipping, which cost almost as much as the jars), roughly $13-14 on the wood for the box and frame, $40 on the electrical components (cord, sockets, nipples, hex nuts, caps), $7-8 on screws and anchors, $6 for light bulbs, and $30 for the angle grinder and cutting wheel I needed for the nipples. Everything else I already had on hand. Most mason jar lights I have found online range from $300-500.

I built this one for approximately $140-150, including the angle grinder purchase!

Here is how I made it:

  1. Make all cuts in wood (cut the sides to the length of bottom piece [36”] and then cut ends to fit), drill pilot holes and connect the bottom, sides and ends with the #6 screws. You should end up with a crate/box with the top open.
  2. Stain or paint the wood the color of your choice. To make mine look more worn, I lightly brushed on a faux whitewash made of 1 part white acrylic paint and 3 parts water.
  3. Drill holes with the ¼” bit in the bottom of the box- wherever you want your wires to come through.
  4. Let’s change gears and move on to making a frame to mount on the ceiling (your box will later mount onto this frame). Measure the inside of your box and make the appropriate cuts in the 1”x2”x6’ piece of wood to create a rectangle that fits snuggly inside the box. Drill pilot holes in the frame and attach the frame to the ceiling using the #8 size anchors (use the directions on the bag/box of anchors).

    I borrowed this picture from Sprouting Off's tutorial because I forgot to take a picture of this part. Her tutorial is where I got the idea. Here is the link: http://www.sproutingoff.com/indoor-project-mason-jar-chandelier/

    I borrowed this picture from Sprouting Off’s tutorial because I forgot to take a picture of this part. Her tutorial is where I got the idea. Here is the link: http://www.sproutingoff.com/indoor-project-mason-jar-chandelier/

  5. Use a hammer and a nail to poke a large hole in the middle of each lid- big enough to fit the nipple through. The zinc lids are soft so after I poked 2 or 3 small holes in a tight bunch, I stuck a screwdriver through and rotated it around to make the hole big enough. Also poke 5 or 6 small holes all around the big hole for heat ventilation.

    Here is a close-up of what the holes in the lid look like.

    Here is a close-up of what the holes in the lid look like.

  6. Cut the nipples down to ~1in each and grind the edges to smooth out the jagged pieces left after cutting.
  7. Thread one hex nut onto the 1in nipple piece and push the nipple through the large hole you made in the lid, then thread the socket onto the end of the nipple (remove cardboard from socket but keep it to put back on later).

Okay now were getting into the wiring. I have to put the disclaimer out there that I am not a licensed electrician and it is highly recommended you consult with one rather than wiring it up yourself. You don’t want to accidentally burn your house down. With this being said, I will give very basic directions on wiring up the light. If you’ve never done electrical work before, please don’t attempt.

  1. Using wire cutters, cut a piece of lamp cord to the desired length (remember you’ll need a few inches extra for wiring.)
  2. Separate and strip the ends on one end (back to what I said earlier, if you do not know how much length to separate or how much rubber to strip off, don’t attempt this part of the project alone.) Push the wires through the nipple and separate onto both sides of the socket. I had clear lamp wire so the casings did not show black or white like traditional wires do. So to identify hot and neutral know that smooth casing is hot and ribbed casing is neutral. Hook the wires around the corresponding screws/terminals and tighten. After you’re done wiring the socket, thread it the rest of the way onto the nipple (so the lid is snug between the hex nut and socket) and replace the cardboard.
  3. I painted the lamp cords black with regular acrylic paint to make it look finished. Remember, spray paint will never cure on rubber so don’t try spray painting it.
  4. Push the end of the cords through the holes you drilled in the bottom of your box. I recommend not attaching the jars to the lids yet. You’re just making sure they hang at a good length right now, it would suck to accidentally drop one and break it.
  5. Separate and strip the wires on the other end. Gather all of the neutral wires in one bundle and all of the hot wires in another.
  6. Now make a pig tail to connect the jar wires to the ceiling connections. I recommend making a long enough pig tail so your box can sit on top of the ladder while you wire things together. I did not do this and it sucked making my husband hold it up while I connected everything.
  7. Attach one end of the pigtail to the wires coming from the jars (neutral with neutral, hot with hot) and gently tighten/twist them together with a wire cap. Attach the other end of the pigtail to the wires in your ceiling using the same method (your ceiling wires will be black coated for hot, white coated for neutral and bare copper for ground. Remember, lamp wire only has hot and neutral, no ground).
  8. After the wiring is complete, test it to make sure it works. If it does, push the box up to the ceiling and carefully position over the frame you mounted earlier. Drill pilot holes (in the side of the frame and the box) and use the #6 screws to attach the box to the frame.
  9. Screw in the light bulbs and then attach the jars to the lids.

And that’s it! Look how gorgeous it is! Definitely completes the space! I am 1 step closer to a house reveal post!

 Mason jar Light

Mason Jar Chandelier

Mason Jar Light

5

For more help, here are the 3 tutorials that inspired/helped me the most during my research stage-

  • This is the tutorial I found that inspired me to use blue jars. I also love how she used 4×4’s instead of a hollow box but decided a hollow box would be better to hold the wires and would add less weight. But this tutorial is still a great start to gather inspiration! http://www.brandisawyer.com/2013/11/mason-jar-chandelier.html
  • This tutorial helped me figure out the best way to mount a hollow box onto the ceiling. I almost gave up on having a hollow box until I found this site! Also, for those who want a lot less electrical work to do, she has a great method: http://www.sproutingoff.com/indoor-project-mason-jar-chandelier/
  • If you want more of a hanging cluster of jars (which is super popular!) then this is a GREAT tutorial. She also has posted pictures of the materials which was helpful when I couldn’t find the specific sockets – http://karapaslaydesigns.com/diy-mason-jar-chandelier/

THANKS FOR READING! LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK AND SHARE YOUR OWN TIPS/TRICKS IF YOU HAVE BUILT A JAR LIGHT OF YOUR OWN!

If I was unclear on something in this post PLEASE let me know. I did not take many pictures for this project and I know it is hard to read directions without pictures. Therefore, if you think I could have explained something better or have any questions, just comment below 🙂

Also, don’t forget to subscribe!

Easy DIY Table Makeover

Here is what my dining table looked like before:

Table-Before

Okay so not awful but not really that great either. It was a cheap-o set we got from Walmart. The dark mocha color looked great in our apartment. Beige walls…..beige carpet….dark brown furniture, perfect! But now were in the new house and it did not look good next to light wood floors, especially after we got the charcoal gray sofa. Just too dark. SO it was time for an update.

Here is what my dining table looks like now:

DIY Dining Table Makeover

DIY Table Makeover

It brightens up the space so much and I know it will look PERFECT when I finish my chandelier later this week! 🙂

Here is how I completed this makeover-

Materials needed:

  • Six 2”x6”x6’ (I bought three 2”x6”x12’ and cut to size)
  • Paint for table base (I made white chalk paint)
  • Stain for table top (I used Minwax stain in Special Walnut)
  • Sandpaper (medium and fine)
  • Electrical sander (optional- it’ll just make it A LOT easier)
  • Clear or natural finishing wax or spray polyurethane in Satin or Matte
  • Four USP lumber connectors straps at 24″ long- found near roofing section of Lowes (lengths and quantity will vary depending on inventory availability and your table needs)
  • Screwdriver
  • ¾” wood screws (~20-25 screws)

Process:

  1. Remove old table top. Mine was attached to the base with 13 screws all around. Keep these screws so you can reuse them for the new table top.
  2. Paint table base and legs desired color. I used a chalk paint recipe because I wanted the finish to be textured and imperfect. Just google chalk paint recipe with plaster of paris- that was my favorite. I did not sand before painting and it is holding up just fine. Distress with sand paper after paint dries (optional).Base

    Here is a close up of the texture and distress detail

    Here is a close up of the texture and distress detail

  3. Sand the 2”x6” boards (after cutting them, if you bought longer boards) with medium grit sandpaper so they are smooth and the edges and corners are slightly rounded. Wipe with a damp cloth to remove wood dust.
  4. Stain boards desired color. I applied my stain with a foam brush, let sit for 4 minutes and then wiped off with an old t-shirt I had cut into squares for such a project. Make sure you stain the sides of the boards so unstained wood is not visible in finished project.
  5. After desired stain is achieved and wood has dried for ~24 hours, sand the boards again with fine grit sandpaper to add distress and smooth out final finish.
  6. Apply finishing wax or spray poly as directed.
  7. After everything is dry, attach boards together using lumber connector straps and ¾” screws on the bottom of the new table top. I originally wanted to use two 32” straps but Lowes did not have any in stock so I used four 24” straps and staggered them slightly (two on each end). I put 2 screws through coordinating holes in each board.

    Straps staggered on the underside of the table. This will keep all the boards together and will prevent them from independently sliding and shifting.

    Straps staggered on the underside of the table. This will keep all the boards together and will prevent them from independently sliding and shifting.

  8. Flip top over and attach to base/legs just as the old one was attached. I used the same screws and holes the old top used.

**Jake suggests putting a glass sheet on top if you have kids or if your SO tends to spill drinks. Otherwise, we have just chosen to use place mats (and cups with lids) when we eat**

And that’s it! Admire your new beauty! I added new chairs (mostly because painting the old ones wasn’t working out very gracefully and that was my excuse to buy the chairs I’ve wanted for who knows how long!)

Restoration Hardware REMY side chair

Restoration Hardware REMY side chair

Aren’t they beautiful?! But they’re $149 EACH (although they’ve been on sale for a while at $99 each but that’s still insane!) I found the exact same chairs at American Furniture Warehouse in Colorado Springs for $55 each. That’s much better but still too much for me because I am what some might call a chronic cheap-ass. So I gave up on the dream UNTIL I started getting more of those “Welcome to the neighborhood, you just bought a whole flippin’ house but buy our crap to fill that expensive beast” coupons from various businesses. Well AFW sent me two $25 off of $100 coupons. Those coupons are a lie though (a good lie). I went into the store and ordered 2 chairs. The total was $110 but after the coupon was selected (just straight out of a drop down box so there’s no way the people messed up a code or anything), my total after tax was $64. Last time I checked 110-25 did not equal 64 but WHO WOULD COMPLAIN?! Certainly not I. I later went back and used the other coupon for 2 more chairs. So I got 4 of these beautiful industrial chairs for my farmhouse table for $128. Way better than $149 or 99 each. SCORE. Moral of the story: ALWAYS shop around and NEVER NOT use a coupon 🙂

Now all that is left to do is upholster the bench that came with the table. I plan on using a canvas drop cloth and adding tufts. Maybe a picture of the bench will end up in the final house tour (once I get this place looking how it should!)

Industrial Curtain Rods- Tutorial

There are a handful of tutorials out there for these unique industrial pipe curtain rods, but I have found they are not as black and white as most people prefer their online tutorials. Well I took a crack at this project with some personal modifications. I made a curtain rod with little extra clearance for my living room window and I made a curtain rod with a lot of extra clearance for my sliding glass door in my dining space. I absolutely hated the vertical blinds covering my sliding door and since the door and window are so close to one another, I decided to do a matching scheme for the two.

I spent about $60 on materials at Lowes all together (not including the spray paint and screws/wall anchors.) Which is pretty incredible seeing as the West Elm version that has inspired this project costs $99 for one rod (they are on sale right now though if you don’t want to bother with the diy.)

Finished Result

Click the picture for a bigger/better view!

Before we get started, here are some things I learned while completing this project.

-The pipe is pretty heavy and you definitely need the wall anchors to keep it on the wall. I thought about using PVC instead (to make it lighter) because you can find all of these materials in PVC, but you would have to have a hook or supporting piece to keep the middle from sagging. Regardless of the weight, they are safely hung on my wall and sturdy.

-I needed a lot of clearance space for the sliding door curtain so I bought a 3” nipple piece. You’ll notice a regular elbow cannot thread into the floor flange because they’re both female adapters. Since I did not need any extra clearance for the window coverings, I bought a “street elbow” which has a female adapter on one side (your pipe will thread into this) and a male adapter on the other (which will thread into the floor flange). See pictures in the tutorial for a visual of this. It was just my way of saving money by not buying a small nipple for the window rod.

-These curtain rods are assembles as a full piece and you will have to decide how you will put your curtains on them before hanging the rod on the wall. I personally love seeing curtains hung with the round hooks that have clips on them. Unfortunately, the curtains I liked had grommets so I had to get creative. Of course you could hang grommet curtains directly on the rod as intended before hanging the last floor flange, but then you hide most of the rod. I found some shower curtain hooks that were perfect to hang my grommet curtains and still show off the industrial style rod. I may change it later. I would just use a pair of channel locks to unthread one side so I can slide different curtain rings on.

First, the rod I made for the window:

Materials needed:

Materials

  • One ½” by 10’ Black Iron Pipe
  • Two ½” Black 90-degree Street Elbow
  • Two ½” Black Floor Flange
  • Spray paint
  • All purpose wall anchors and screws
  • Drill, hammer, screwdriver
  • Drop cloth
  • Curtain Hooks (Optional)
  1. When I measured my window, I found that I would end up wanting a 7ft long pipe but these black pipes do not come in that length. No worries though! I had a 10ft pipe cut and rethreaded to the 7ft length I wanted (easy peasy and it’s a free cut)
  2. Connect the 90-degree street elbows to the end of the pipe by gently threading it on. Next, thread the floor flange to the other end of the street elbow. Repeat on the other side of the pipe making sure each end is even with each other. (Be aware that there will still be quite a bit of threading visible)2
  3. Lay your drop cloth out and spray paint the assembled rod the color of your choice. You may also want to spray paint the screw heads and curtain hooks (if using). I sprayed mine with a Rustoleum Hammered paint. There’s a few different shades but I tried to go with one that is “industrial looking”, but not too silver so it wouldn’t look tacky. The result was not as textured as I was hoping but still looks great. 5
  4. To hang the rod, choose the spot you want them to go and make sure it is level. I usually mark the hole spots on the wall with a pencil. Then to use the wall anchors, use a drill with the specific diameter bit to drill a hole into the wall, insert the anchor. You may be able to just push it in. If not, gently tap it with a hammer or the end of a screwdriver until it is flush with the wall. Place the floor flange with corresponding hole over the anchor, insert a screw and tighten with screwdriver or drill.

Next, the rod I made for my sliding glass door:

Materials

Materials needed:

  • One ½” by 72” Black Iron Pipe
  • Two ½” Black 90-degree Elbow
  • Two ½” by 3” Galvanized Steel Pipe Nipple (length may vary depending on the extra space you want)
  • Two ½” Black Floor Flange
  • Spray paint
  • All purpose anchors and wall screws
  • Drill, hammer, screwdriver
  • Drop cloth
  • Curtain Hooks (Optional)
  1. Make sure your pipe is the correct length needed. I got lucky to find that the 72” long option was the perfect length for my sliding glass door and I did not need to get another one cut.
  2. Connect the 90-degree elbows to the ends on the pipe. Then connect the nipples to the elbows and then the floor flanges to the nipples. Make sure each end is even with the other.1
  3. Lay your drop cloth out and spray paint your assembled rod the color of your choice. You may also want to paint your screw heads and curtain hooks (if using).
  4. To hang the rod, choose the spot you want them to go and make sure it is level. I usually mark the hole spots on the wall with a pencil. Then to use the wall anchors, use a drill with the specific diameter bit to drill a hole into the wall, insert the anchor and gently tap it with a hammer or the end of the screwdriver until it is flush with the wall. Place the floor flange with corresponding hole over the anchor, insert a screw and tighten with screwdriver or drill.

Curtains

As you can see, I still need to paint the screw heads but I love how the floor flanges look on the wall!

As you can see, I still need to paint the screw heads but I love how the floor flanges look on the wall!

Finished Result

The finished result was awesome! (Again, I apologize for my camera’s picture quality- one day I will be able to buy a nice camera and really give you the full effect of these projects!) I still need to paint the screws but that will come whenever I have time. It has been a crazy week! I’d also like to go back and buy another pair of curtains to get more coverage but it definitely makes the entire space feel so much “home-ier.” My new home still lacks a lot of decor and I have a long way to go before I get it where I want it. Next project: refinish my dining table to make it look for farmhouse chic!

How to Replace a Fluorescent Light With a Track Light

How to Replace a Fluorescent Light With a Track Light

We just closed on our new house on the 12th and began the awful process of moving in….during the week…a little bit everyday….after work…when we really didn’t want to. But we managed to get the essentials moved in before my in-laws came for an early holiday visit. As far as fixing up the house, we had several things we wanted to do, one of the most important was changing out the fluorescent light in the kitchen. I HATE fluorescent tube ceiling lights! I work in them all day (because government buildings refuse to use lighting that is easier on the retinas) and refuse to come home to yet another intense, unflattering light. And although I could have completed this project on my own, my father-in-law (who has been building houses for over 40 years) was more than happy wipe it off the to-do list for me while the tools were still out 🙂

The process is fairly straight forward and pretty much as simple as taking the old one down and putting a new one up, but I’ll admit, the first time I did this a few years ago, it was a little confusing, thus this tutorial is born! Before I get started, I would like to apologize for the awful quality pictures. For most of the process, I was using my husbands iPhone to take pictures and those phones do NOT have good cameras.

This picture was taken during our home inspection before purchasing, but it will do just fine since I forgot to take a picture of the light before we took it down. Oops lol

BEFORE: This picture was taken during our home inspection before purchasing, but it will do just fine since I forgot to take a picture of the light before we took it down. Oops lol

REPLACING A FLUORESCENT LIGHT WITH TRACK LIGHTING:

Materials Needed: new light fixture, screwdriver and drill/driver, wire strippers, plastic wire nuts.

  1.  Shut off power to the house at the breaker box first. Then, remove the plastic cover from the light fixture and the light bulbs (they are VERY fragile so be extremely careful!)

    l5

    After the cover and the bulbs are removed, this is what you will see- a shell attached to the ceiling with a center cover within it.

  2. After you have removed the plastic cover and the bulbs, remove the center piece of the fixture. This is just a metal strip covering the wires. Depending on the kind you have, you may be able to just tug it off or you may have to unscrew a few screws.

    light

    This is the mess you will find under the center piece.

  3. Remove the caps from the wires and unravel them (the wires from the fixture will be twisted together with wires from the ceiling).

    Carefully untwist the wires

    Carefully untwist the wires

  4. After untwisting the wires, remove the screws holding the fixture shell on the ceiling.
  5. Make sure you have someone helping hold it up. Otherwise you will unscrew it and it may fall on you!

    Make sure you have someone helping hold it up. Otherwise you will unscrew it and it may fall on you!

    It's gone! Now the awkward hole in the ceiling with wires poking through....chic indeed.

    It’s gone! Now the awkward hole in the ceiling with wires poking through….chic indeed.

  6. We ended up finding that whoever put this light up originally, did not secure it with a ceiling electrical box. Usually lights are attached to a box placed between the ceiling joists for support. Ours, was not. Depending on your new light fixture and ceiling joists, that may or may not be a problem. After some measuring and knocking around, we just screwed the new light fixture’s supporting bracket straight into the joists (like hanging a picture on the wall using a wall stud.)

    Supporting bracket screwed directly into the joists- angled just right to hide the hole in the ceiling.

    Supporting bracket screwed directly into the joists- angled just right to hide the hole in the ceiling.

  7. Your new fixture probably came with a wiring diagram. As a standard, you a have a black or red coated wire (hot/live), a white coated wire (neutral) and a green coated or bare copper wire (ground wire). Connect the ground wire to the grounding screw (usually a green screw). Hook the wire around the screw and use a screwdriver to screw it in so that the screw is snug with the wire. Then, strip approximately a 1/2″ of the colored sheathes off the ends of the black and white wires from the light fixture with a pair or wire strippers. Twist the newly exposed ends of the fixture with the exposed ends of the corresponding black or white wires from the ceiling and secure the ends by twisting a plastic wire nut onto them. White wire with white wire, black wire with black wire.
  8. Tuck all wires into the ceiling hole. Then place the fixture on the supporting bracket on the ceiling and screw in the screws that came with the new fixture. Put the light bulbs in and position where you want the lights to point. Now you can turn the power back on and admire your new track light!

And behold! The beautiful new light! (Once the kitchen is cleared of all the crap on the counters, I will post pictures of the whole kitchen with the new light. Oh the joys of moving -_____- ) I know once we paint the cabinets white, the whole kitchen will come together so nicely!

tracklight

We used the same process to replace the light over the sink too! Replacing a dome light with a hanging, industrial cage light! We put one of the vintage looking Edison bulbs in it and it looks so cool in person!

cage cage2